How to Care for an Automatic Watch

An automatic watch is a mechanical instrument with dozens of tiny moving parts, and it rewards a little routine care with decades of reliable service. The essentials are few: keep it wound, keep it clean, keep it away from strong magnets and hard knocks, check its water resistance now and then, and book a full service every 5 to 7 years. Do those things and a good automatic will outlive whatever you paid for it.

Keep it wound

An automatic winds from the motion of your wrist, so daily wear usually keeps it ticking. Rotate several watches and any one you leave idle will stop once its power reserve, often 38 to 80 hours, runs down. That is normal, not a fault. To restart it, wind the crown 20 to 30 turns and reset the time. A watch winder keeps a rested watch running if you would rather not reset it, though it is a convenience rather than a necessity. For how the movement works, see watch movements explained.

Set the time and date carefully

• Avoid the date danger zone. Do not change the date roughly between 9pm and 3am, when the mechanism is already engaged. Forcing it then can strip the tiny gears.
• Wind gently. Stop the moment you feel resistance while hand-winding. Do not force the crown past it.
• Screw the crown back down on a water-resistant watch after setting, so the case stays sealed.

Keep it clean

Wipe the case, crystal and bracelet with a soft microfibre cloth, dry or barely damp, to lift sweat, oils and dust. On a water-resistant watch with the crown fully closed, you can rinse a steel bracelet under lukewarm water. Skip harsh chemicals, and never submerge a watch whose rating you are unsure of. The home cleaning guide walks through the full routine safely.

Mind magnets, shocks and heat

Three everyday hazards do the most damage to mechanical watches:

• Magnetism. Speakers, laptops, tablet covers and magnetic clasps can magnetise the hairspring and send the watch running fast. Keep a little distance; a watchmaker can demagnetise it in minutes.
• Shocks. A sharp drop onto a hard floor can knock the balance out. I would not wear a mechanical watch for golf or racket sports.
• Heat. Saunas and hot showers harden the water-resistance gaskets and thin the movement's lubricants faster.

Protect the water resistance

Gaskets harden and shrink with age, so water resistance is never permanent. If you swim with the watch, have it pressure-tested and its gaskets checked every year or two, always confirm a screw-down crown is fully closed before it meets water, and never operate the crown while it is wet. The water resistance guide explains what the rating really promises.

Service every 5 to 7 years

Over time the oils inside dry out and metal wears against metal. A full service, which means stripping the movement, cleaning it, re-oiling, regulating and fitting a fresh gasket set, restores accuracy and heads off expensive damage. The interval is roughly 5 to 7 years, but bring it forward if the watch starts running noticeably fast or slow, or if the power reserve shrinks. The servicing guide has the detail.

Storing it between wears

Keep the watch away from magnets and direct sun, ideally in a soft pouch or a box. A winder is optional, and letting a watch wind down does it no harm at all. Browse the automatic and mechanical watches, pick up a fresh strap to change the look, or read more care guides.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a watch winder?

No. A winder is a convenience that keeps a rested watch running so you never reset it, but letting an automatic wind down is completely harmless. Daily wear keeps it wound perfectly well.

How often should I service it?

Roughly every 5 to 7 years. The oils dry out and parts wear, so a service cleans, re-oils and regulates the movement. Bring it in sooner if timekeeping drifts or the power reserve drops off.

Why is my automatic running fast?

Usually magnetism, a service that is overdue, or a knock. A daily variation of 5 to 10 seconds is normal for an automatic; larger drift points to demagnetising or a service.